Confessions of a Chocoholic: Eating (and Drinking) our Way Through Belgium in Two Days

I do not like Brussels. I don’t. Of all the quaint, charming cities in Europe, it wouldn’t rank high on my go-to list.

So, when my friends decided that is where they wanted to go on our weekend together when they were visiting from the States, I was less than impressed.

But, I have a confession to make: I HAD THE BEST WEEKEND!

Two of my closest friends, Jaime and Zack, came to visit me in Amsterdam. They flew in Friday – and we had just enough time for a fantastic dinner at Pikoteo – before we were off to Belgium on Saturday morning.

After a brief train transfer in Brussels, we were off to the medieval city of Bruges, arriving in the city just after midday. I just knew they would love Bruges! The city has an amazing charm. Untouched by WW2, there’s history at every twist and turn with buildings standing strong from the 11^th and 12^th centuries (and probably even before).

And, you can’t go wrong in a city that has become a hub for all the best Belgium has to offer: frites, waffles, beer and CHOCOLATE!

This was my third time in Bruges, but the first time in the summer season. And although we hit it during a heat wave, it was by far my favorite visit. The city is so picturesque! And the great company helped too :)

We started our day with a light chocolate appetizer. You know, just a light rush of sugar to get the blood flowing. We then made a real effort to follow the to do list throughout the rest of the day: chocolate, frites, waffles beer, boat ride, repeat.

We got through round 1 with no problem. Onto round 2…Chocolate…ice cream...

Ice cream? We got completely side tracked by two gelaterias, and in 28°C heat (82°F), who could blame us? After carefully selecting a place called Oyya, we taste tested a few flavours before settling  on our final picks.

As an ice cream connoisseur, I can confidently tell you I chose well: original chocolate (seriously) and mint chip. I’ll go on record saying this was the best ice cream I’ve ever had. So much so that on the way back to Brussels I Googled where else in the world Oyya exists, because I have to go there next. The good news is there is an Oyya #2. It’s located on the east side of Belgium in a town called Hasselt. Let’s take bets on where I’m going next...

Anyway, after a day of loading up on zero sustenance, we happily jumped on the train to Brussels. We quickly checked into our hotel, freshened up, and went to hit the town to check out the dinner and nightlife in the city.  

Dinner did not disappoint: mussels and waterzooi chicken. As touristy as you could get. And just as delicious as I wanted it to be. No regrets here.

Post-dinner we wandered a few blocks over to A La Mort Subite, a historic bar in Brussels that bears the same name as our craft brand, Mort Subite. In fact, as the story goes, the name of the beer comes from this exact pub where the game Pietjesbak was played. The final throw of the game was called ‘Mort Subite’ or sudden death, to mark the end of the game.

 

I had the opportunity to visit the brewery in a town called Asse outside of Brussels last summer. It’s a great craft brewery and I particularly enjoy the flavored beers they produce, like kriek (cherry) and peche (peach).

After our drinks we explored the side streets of the (surprisingly?) bustling city. It was certainly livelier on a Saturday night than I would’ve expected. 1 more point for Brussels.

The next day we were booked bright and early on  a 9am chocolate walking tour. Yes, let me repeat. CHOCOLATE walking tour. I don’t care if I lost a few of you to the ‘tourist’ eye roll. This was by far one of the best things I have done in any city, and is the reason why Brussels is back on the map for 
me.

We met our tour guide, an ex-business man who left the rat race after an encounter with monks who cured an illness he had with a piece of dark chocolate (true story, or so he says...), in front of the Godiva in Grand Place. Ok, I know I just lost respect from half of you. Don’t worry though. We didn’t ACTUALLY go to Godiva. I would’ve lost respect for myself there too…

Our guide, named Marc, from Global Enterprises, explained to us how to identify where to go/not to go in Brussels when it comes to chocolate. Pro tip #1: If the shop has lots of colors, lots going on, sells things other than chocolates (e.g., gummy candies and marshmallows) avoid at all costs. Stick to the shops that have one, or simpler and organized color palates.

Marc warned us we were in for it. His four hour tour took us through main streets and back-alleys, by tourist sites and residential areas, into bars with local beers and by authentic waffle and frites shops. He told us where to eat, where to buy, where to avoid. It was fantastic.

And boy, were we in for it. We made stops at SEVEN chocolate shops, which included tasting 10 chocolates, 1 hot chocolate, 1 chocolate sorbet AND making an assortment of our own chocolates to boot. We tasted white chocolate and dark chocolate. Pralines and caramels. Earl grey infused chocolates with cocoa beans from Madagascar, and pink champagne chocolates made from pink cocoa beans from Brasil. You name it, we tried it.

 

 

This chocoholic was in heaven. Pure heaven.

 

 

Then, as if that wasn't enough, we made our own chocolates. We rolled up our sleeves and got our hands dirty trying to perfect the chocolate-making craft. My lack of art skills didn't help, but hey, who cares what it looks like when it tastes the same!

 

 

Our bellies fully, and hearts happy, we wandered back over to A La Becasse, a bar from the early 1900s that had local lambic beer, to wash down all that sugar.

And I can’t forget, our delicious last meal at Noordzee, a local seafood counter with fresh fish and a line around the block. It’s self-proclaimed as ‘Fish for Foodies.’ A phrase I absolutely love. We chowed down on a lunch of fish soup, shrimp croquettes, cod and seabass.

 

 

 

Our last few hours in Brussels was spent basking in the sun with some beverages in an outdoor café, because when it’s 27°, the sun is shining and you’re in the middle of a major European capital, there’s actually no better thing in the world to do.

Our tour de food wouldn’t be complete without paying a visit to Friterie Tabora, a highly recommended frites stand in the centre of the city that serves fresh, hand-cut frites, with a wide assortment of dipping sauces. C’est magnifique!

 

So, there you have it. A weekend of chocolate, frites, beer, waffle and good friends.

And now back to Amsterdam where Jaime and Zack get to explore the next few days. How lucky are they?! Unfortunately for me it’s back to work, but only for a few more days! I leave for Portugal in a week from Tuesday with my next visitors: Rachel and Gillian, and I absolutely cannot wait for this next adventure!